Thomas Jefferson was one of America's original oenophiles. But his lifelong goal to create an American wine to match European vintages was never achieved. In the 1820s, it was a different Virginia-native-- Dr. Daniel Norton -- whose experimentation in his home garden would lead to a grape that still bares his name. We explore the unique story of Norton wine, and the evolution of American wine-making.
You all know I am not a big fan of Norton, but Chrysalis and Jenny have done a great job promoting it as the American Grape.
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There are 257 Norton wineries today in 24 states (Alabama - 4, Arkansas - 6, Florida - 1, Georgia - 8, Illinois - 27, Indiana - 3, Iowa – 12, Kansas - 9, Kentucky - 14, Louisiana - 2, Maryland - 1, Michigan – 1, Missouri – 86, Nebraska – 4, New Jersey - 3, New York - 1, North Carolina - 5, Ohio - 3, Oklahoma - 6, Pennsylvania - 4, Tennessee - 11, Texas - 9, Virginia - 36, West Virginia – 1). Finding that exceptional Norton wine is like kissing a lot of toads to find that prince(ss). After tasting now over a 100 different Norton wines from seventeen states, we have found a few exciting Nortons and a handful of other really good wine examples which vary annually due to vintage variation. Many people want instant wine gratification upon purchase, but here is where that does not work since most Norton wines need to be put away for several years, ~ something most people are not willing or able to do. To date, we've found only a few "drink now" Norton wines; as, Westphalia and Peaceful Bend in Missouri, Texas’ Stone House ‘Claros’ and Castle Gruen in Virginia. And wineries that hold back their wines four or five years also consequently charge you more for these wines (Stone Hill Cross J Norton as example). But not to discourage you in Norton wine purchases, you will enjoy even younger Norton wines if you let your bottles rest for a few weeks after purchase (travel bottle shock) and make sure to let your Norton wine breathe for no less than 40 minutes before serving. Your first sip will smack you of malic acids (+ tannins), but quickly settle down with the second sip, etc. Depending on your travel location, do try the best Norton wines within the following states: White Oaks (AL); Mount Bethel (AR), Three Sister (GA); Century Farms (TN); Elk Creek (KY); Illinois Cellars (IL)., Stone House Vineyards (TX), Castle Gruen, Cooper, DuCard, Chrysalis (VA); Stone Mountain Cellars (PA), Heinrichshaus, Stone Hill's Cross J, Montelle, Robller, Peaceful Bend and Westphalia (MO). Please do not compare Norton wine to California and European vinifera, since it's truly an American wine which reflects our American culture. Doug Frost, a Kansas City wine writer and master sommelier expressed Norton wines best as "powerful, muscular, crazy intense in malic acid and capable of staining teeth or even wineglasses. [The wine is] probably something most drinkers have to learn to love, with its rough and rustic personality often evident." *Another concern for many is the cost of Norton wines. Realize that grape production can be less than one third per acre with Norton grapes as compared to other grape yields because of its small size and extremely seedy fruit. There are other factors involved also, but generally expect to pay $18-$25 per bottle. Most less expensive Norton wines reflect anticipated quality, but here we also have some fine exceptions; as, Horton ($12-$15 VA), St. James ($8-15 MO), Illinois Cellars ($7 IL), Elk Creek Vineyards ($13 KY), Century Farms ($12 TN) and White Oaks ($13 AL). Try to find Norton vineyards with older vines which combine well with more experienced Norton vintners. But here again, we have been pleasantly surprised with new Norton upstarts who make amazing blends to camouflage their young green Nortons. Do yourself a favor by enjoying Todd Kliman's novel-like-Norton biography, The Wild Vine, with a Norton wine in hand.
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